When researching things to do in Lisbon, I saw tons of recommendations for riding the #28 tram. While seeing the city’s oldest neighborhood in this manner makes for a memorable experience, the tram is often literally overflowing with other tourists who also want to have this experience. I waited for 3 go-rounds of the #28, and was never able to get on because there wasn’t even room to breathe on board. The way I see it, even if you do get a coveted spot on the tram, you’re going to be packed in there like… well, like sardines. Not my idea of fun.

se de lisboa – lisbon cathedral

Though it’s an uphill climb, making the trek from the Lisbon Cathedral (Se de Lisboa) up through the Alfama neighborhood is a treat for the senses. Cute shops, tiny traditional bars, crumbling buildings, winding staircases, and some fine street art will give you plenty of opportunities to stop for a look-see or a quick photo. It’s the perfect place to get lost for a few hours. The best part is, you can take the #28 on your way back down – it’s usually much less crowded going the opposite direction.

seeing the sights in alfama

overlooking lisbon from alfama

alfama street art

alfama street art

colorful alfama

This post is part of a series on How To Do Lisbon.

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Lisbon is one of those places where it’s hard to capture the beauty with a camera. You have to stop often, pause, and soak it all in. Let the breeze sweep over you, turn your face up to the sun, smile a bit to yourself and then push on up the next steep hill, over the buckling cobblestone sidewalks, down the time-worn stone stairs, and around the next bend, where you’ll spy something else that makes you stop in your tracks, exhale sharply, and pause to admire it all over again.

During my entire time there, I found myself repeating two words over and over: impressive, and picturesque. But there was also this feeling of welcoming ease. That is, unless I found myself in one of the heavily crowded, tourist-oriented areas of town. Even then, though, popping into a shop, I’d be met with a friendly bit of conversation, or be greeted with a familiar ‘bomdia nena’ as I passed one of the restaurant hawkers standing out in front of the rows of cafes, attempting to lure non-locals in for a slightly overpriced bite to eat.

Before I left to visit the city, more than one Spanish associate of mine had used the same word to describe Lisbon: decadente. Upon hearing the word, I’d wrinkle my brow a bit and wonder if I was heading to some place that would be characterized by overindulgence or questionable morality. After arriving, however, I realized that what my associates had intended was the definition of decadence that I’d all but forgotten – that being a place characterized by decay or decline, a place that is now a faded vision of its former glory.

one of Lisbon’s many winding staircases

a peeling oled facade interplays with modern street art

urban decay never looked so good

Indeed, Lisbon is peppered with faded, dilapidated buildings, aged streets and sidewalks in need of repair, neglected and peeling facades, and a thin layer of grunge that seems to have lightly settled over almost everything. Yet, at the same time, the city manages to feel extremely modern and cosmopolitan. The efficient transportation system, the trendy shopping and bar districts, the amusing and provocative street art and performers, the cultural mishmash of colors, styles, nationalities, and cuisines you can see and smell as you stroll through the streets. Couple that with the fact that the city is located next to a huge river and not far from the Atlantic Ocean, and you get the sense of constant flow – an unhurried busy-ness that imparts energy that keeps the city renewed and young despite the obvious fact that it is so very, very old.

forever portugal

feelin’ the love in lisbon

Over the next few days, I’ll be sharing my insights on what to see and do in Lisbon . Here’s a preview of what’s to come:

1. Take Up Residence in Pena
2. Eat Grilled Sardines
3. Skip the #28 and Explore Alfama on Foot
4. People Watch at the Port
5. Use the Metro
6. Sample Affordable, New Portuguese Cuisine
7. See the Monuments in Belem
8. Take a Day Trip to Sintra or Cascais
9. Have a Bifana
10. Learn How to Say Thank You in Portuguese

The abundance of fresh and expertly prepared fish in Lisbon made me one very happy girl. Grilled sardines is one of Lisbon’s most iconic dishes, so if you’re a fish lover, you have to experience it at least once.

grilled sardines served with typical accompaniments: potato and salad

Just a few minutes away from the hustle and bustle (and higher prices) of the city center is the Pena neighborhood of Lisbon. It’s accessible by either:

• a long walk up a steep hill,
• a long walk up lots of old stairs, or
• a brief ride on the Lavra funicular.

Either way, it’s worth the trouble. Pena offers lodging options that strike the perfect balance of location, comfort and price. Staying here gives you a break from the busy-ness and lets you experience a more intimate side of the city. Friendly neighbors who smile and say good morning as you pass them on the street, and cheaper, less crowded restaurants are a part of the package.

Where I Stayed: NEW! 2patios&parking; center Lisbon

photo source: AirBnB

Dinner at Restaurant Cerqueira in Pena – All this for a little over 5 euro.

Perfectly prepared caipirinha at Terras Gerais, a cozy Brazilian restaurant in Pena

More About Lisbon Neighborhoods

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